Reaching the United Nations’ “SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production” requires that we opt for a more sustainable use of our natural resources, that we manage chemicals and waste in a more responsible way, and of course, that we substantially reduce our waste generation.

What do they wear in the Western world? What do we wear in Africa?

Their fall into the trap of fast fashion. Brands like Zara and H&M are omnipresent in the high streets and biggest malls in Europe. The global fast fashion market value was estimated at USD36 billion in 2019 and is expected to reach up to 43 billion in 2029 (Statista Research Department).

Fast fashion industry produces 2 to 4 percent of manmade CO2 emissions every year, which is way more than what global aviation and maritime transport generate (Our World in Data, 2020). Textile production is responsible for 38 percent of greenhouse gases emissions annually. 62 percent of synthetic fibres and 24 percent of cotton used in the fashion industry are fossil fuel-based.

Manufacturing is one thing. Transporting, packaging, and selling add more to the carbon footprint of those finished goods. Then comes consumption. Only one percent of materials used to manufacture new clothing are recycled, and only 15 percent of clothing is used with an aim of recycling. What happens to the rest?

Our dependency on secondhand clothes. According to the Ellen McArthur Foundation (2021), Westerners wear the same clothe 36 percent less times than 15 years ago. This means that their purchasing frequency has significantly risen over time. Used and unwanted clothes then end up in large African markets like Kenya (185,000 tons of secondhand clothes in 2019) or Uganda, and in smaller ones like Madagascar. According to the Global Fashion Agenda’s Pulse Report, Africans now buy twice more garments than in the mid-2000s.

We can acknowledge that secondhand clothes give Africans access to cheap clothing. We admit that secondhand clothing business creates jobs – decent or not – for a lot of Africans. We are very likely to come across new and unused garments from fast fashion brands with their original labels in local thrift shops.

Sociologists explain that “re-using” things is part of the African culture. We cannot deny that that is already a significant step towards more responsible consumption. Anyway, as responsible consumers, we are urged to mind what we buy and wear.

• We could check what is written on our clothe labels. We can choose to wear garments made of sustainable synthetics or organic cotton.
• We can explore the manufacturer’s energy policy along the whole value chain before choosing a brand.
• We can recycle or re-use our old clothes, or give them to charity organizations.
• Or we can simply ask ourselves: “Do I really need this?” before taking some cash out of our wallet. Good for our pocket and good for the environment!

No matter what, there will be tons of unsellable or waste clothing that will unfortunately end up rotting in toxic landfills in Africa. For example, on the outskirts of Accra, Ghana, we would find a 30ft-mountain of discarded clothing. There is a risk that African countries serve as huge trash bins overloaded with used and dirty garments from western countries. But it is not too late to change the course of events. Without waiting for adapted policies, let us start by minding what we wear!